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>nd a free tip. >If you don’t want to muck up your pedals by gluing velcro to them >unscrew the bottom panel, take the screws to the hardware store >and get the same diameter and thread, but 3/8" or so longer. Cut >a piece of thin plywood or masonite the same size as the bottom >panel and drill holes in the same spots as on the panel. Reinstall >the panel and the masonite using the longer screws and then glue >the velcro to the masonite instead of the pedal. If you ever >get sick of the pedal you can then sell it without some wanker >trying to beat you down on the price because of the glue mess…
Thanks for a good idea!!! And, to keep it sort of on topic for the original poster: You might want to consider just buying a cheap case at a music store – I picked up a new one for around $40 US, and it is perfectly adequate. It doesn’t come with a power supply, but it’s easier than building one from scratch.
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->nd a free tip. >If you don’t want to muck up your pedals by gluing velcro to them >unscrew the bottom panel, take the screws to the hardware store >and get the same diameter and thread, but 3/8" or so longer. Cut >a piece of thin plywood or masonite the same size as the bottom >panel and drill holes in the same spots as on the panel. Reinstall >the panel and the masonite using the longer screws and then glue >the velcro to the masonite instead of the pedal. If you ever >get sick of the pedal you can then sell it without some wanker >trying to beat you down on the price because of the glue mess… >Thanks for a good idea!!! >And, to keep it sort of on topic for the original poster: >You might want to consider just buying a cheap case at a music store – I picked >up a new one for around $40 US, and it is perfectly adequate. It doesn’t come >with a power supply, but it’s easier than building one from scratch.
You’re welcome. Also, if some of your pedals are shorter than the others you can raise them up by using thicker plywood or even stacking layers of it so the tops of all the pedals wind up at the same height. Claude
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> stay away from the on piece double male jack
Count on it! — O< "There is nothing- absolutely nothing- half so much worth doing /() as simply messing about in boats." ~Wind In The Willows ^^ Slidell, LA
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>On holding them down, anyone ever seen jack-to-jack’s with the plug barrels >strong enough to be tied down?
Yeah, but if you do that and a pedal or the jack to jack fails it’s tied down and a pain to quick change. Velcro. jeffb van.bc.ca
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> My favourite idea so far is based on this > http://www.thinclient.net/sgg/VG-8-pedalcase-project.htm
When I went to this link, I thought: "I’m sorry, Dave. I’m afraid I can’t do that."
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Hey, The guitarist in my old band, who is around in uk.music.guitar, made one by buying a sort of metal (Aluminium I think) case and some velcro from B&Q and using that… I’m afraid now that I’ve started to type I’ve rather forgotten the details, I remember that the result was a nice compact and portable board… You could go over there and ask him. neal. — producing the finest low tones since 1993!
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all > Having now aquired a couple of pedals, including an EBS chorus (which does > sound nice thanks to all the advised), a TU2 tuner and a RV1 reverb together > with a UHF wireless link and the power supplies, I am need of a pedal board. > I wonder if any DIY board builders (or otherwise) would send me pics or URLs > to give me some inspiration. > Many thanks > — > Veronica Merryfield, somewhere in Cambridgeshire, UK
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> You can also build your own with some plywood. Just remove the bottom of > your boxes and use longer screws to fix them thru the plywood. I made myself > a big pedal board with built in power input, and with a light bulb so I can > see where I’m stomping, but it was real big. If you do not have that much > Gizmos, I’d suggest to try an old drawer.
My favourite idea so far is based on this http://www.thinclient.net/sgg/VG-8-pedalcase-project.htm On holding them down, anyone ever seen jack-to-jack’s with the plug barrels strong enough to be tied down? > Q. Why do some bands even have bass players? > A. To translate for the drummer.
Now ain’t that the truth with some drummers. Worse, to keep them in time!
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Wow. This guy has some good ideas and free time on his hands. The guitar stand is a good Idea. If you do not have any rack-able unit (in which case I’d suggest to buy a rack…), I’d say try to find an idea whare there is a cover. It’s useful for transportation. The two-strorey thing is a good idea, but IMO it needssome manual skills I’m not equipped with 
. — Henry! Q. Why do some bands even have bass players? A. To translate for the drummer. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> You can also build your own with some plywood. Just remove the bottom of > your boxes and use longer screws to fix them thru the plywood. I made > myself > a big pedal board with built in power input, and with a light bulb so I > can > see where I’m stomping, but it was real big. If you do not have that much > Gizmos, I’d suggest to try an old drawer. > My favourite idea so far is based on this > http://www.thinclient.net/sgg/VG-8-pedalcase-project.htm > On holding them down, anyone ever seen jack-to-jack’s with the plug barrels > strong enough to be tied down? > Q. Why do some bands even have bass players? > A. To translate for the drummer. > Now ain’t that the truth with some drummers. Worse, to keep them in time!
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Hi all Having now aquired a couple of pedals, including an EBS chorus (which does sound nice thanks to all the advised), a TU2 tuner and a RV1 reverb together with a UHF wireless link and the power supplies, I am need of a pedal board. I wonder if any DIY board builders (or otherwise) would send me pics or URLs to give me some inspiration. Many thanks — Veronica Merryfield, somewhere in Cambridgeshire, UK
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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >Hi all >Having now aquired a couple of pedals, including an EBS chorus (which does >sound nice thanks to all the advised), a TU2 tuner and a RV1 reverb together >with a UHF wireless link and the power supplies, I am need of a pedal board. >I wonder if any DIY board builders (or otherwise) would send me pics or URLs >to give me some inspiration. >Many thanks >– >Veronica Merryfield, somewhere in Cambridgeshire, UK
Hi Here’s a good pro link http://www.ngmpedalboards.com great stuff. and a free tip. If you don’t want to muck up your pedals by gluing velcro to them unscrew the bottom panel, take the screws to the hardware store and get the same diameter and thread, but 3/8" or so longer. Cut a piece of thin plywood or masonite the same size as the bottom panel and drill holes in the same spots as on the panel. Reinstall the panel and the masonite using the longer screws and then glue the velcro to the masonite instead of the pedal. If you ever get sick of the pedal you can then sell it without some wanker trying to beat you down on the price because of the glue mess… Also, look into George L cables for hookups Happy Stomping Claude
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Hi ! You can also build your own with some plywood. Just remove the bottom of your boxes and use longer screws to fix them thru the plywood. I made myself a big pedal board with built in power input, and with a light bulb so I can see where I’m stomping, but it was real big. If you do not have that much Gizmos, I’d suggest to try an old drawer. HTH — Henry! Q. Why do some bands even have bass players? A. To translate for the drummer. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi all > Having now aquired a couple of pedals, including an EBS chorus (which does > sound nice thanks to all the advised), a TU2 tuner and a RV1 reverb together > with a UHF wireless link and the power supplies, I am need of a pedal board. > I wonder if any DIY board builders (or otherwise) would send me pics or URLs > to give me some inspiration. > Many thanks > — > Veronica Merryfield, somewhere in Cambridgeshire, UK
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I have one of the NGM’s that I’ve had for years, and , other than the weight of it with the pedals, its the best thing in my collection. Great looking, solid and organized. Here’s mine: http://www.curbdog.org/Bobsville/mics.htm or click around here http://www.curbdog.org/Bobsville/homeFramehtm.htm under TOyz Bob
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi all >Having now aquired a couple of pedals, including an EBS chorus (which does >sound nice thanks to all the advised), a TU2 tuner and a RV1 reverb together >with a UHF wireless link and the power supplies, I am need of a pedal board. >I wonder if any DIY board builders (or otherwise) would send me pics or URLs >to give me some inspiration. >Many thanks >– >Veronica Merryfield, somewhere in Cambridgeshire, UK > Hi > Here’s a good pro link > http://www.ngmpedalboards.com > great stuff. > and a free tip. > If you don’t want to muck up your pedals by gluing velcro to them > unscrew the bottom panel, take the screws to the hardware store > and get the same diameter and thread, but 3/8" or so longer. Cut > a piece of thin plywood or masonite the same size as the bottom > panel and drill holes in the same spots as on the panel. Reinstall > the panel and the masonite using the longer screws and then glue > the velcro to the masonite instead of the pedal. If you ever > get sick of the pedal you can then sell it without some wanker > trying to beat you down on the price because of the glue mess… > Also, look into George L cables for hookups > Happy Stomping > Claude
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When wiring your pedals together, stay away from the on piece double male jack cranks……use short cables like George L’s. With the one piece cranks everytime you step on one pedal, the other side is pushing into the adjacent pedal causing undue stress on the female jack. Aloha, Jerry
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> Having now aquired a couple of pedals, including an EBS chorus (which does > sound nice thanks to all the advised), a TU2 tuner and a RV1 reverb together > with a UHF wireless link and the power supplies, I am need of a pedal board. > I wonder if any DIY board builders (or otherwise) would send me pics or URLs > to give me some inspiration.
There’s some good pedal board info at www.fulltone.com and www.pedalboard.com Here’s what I advise: #1 Use sticky back 3/4" Velcro. #2 Cover a 1/4" to 3/8" piece of plywood in black carpet for your board. The grey/black carpet so much equipment is covered in, is called Ozite. It may be available locally. If not, I like www.tchweb.com. The carpet replaces the fuzzy side of the velcro pair. Don’t buy the sew on velcro at a fabric store. ACE/HD/Lowes carry the sticky back type. I prefer thin plywood to 3/4" because I use a wah and it feels weird if the board is > 3/8" – that’s just me. Look in the scrap bin at HD or Lowes. They gave me the piece I’m using now for free. I use DAP Gel style contact cement to glue the carpet to the wood. Do it outside with a mask on. I use a putty knife instead of a brush. A utility knife is good for trimming, etc. If you don’t know how to do this, here’s your resource: www.webervst.com, Bulletin Boards, Enclosures.