Question:
My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off or open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always the same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door is jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air coming out that I can’t adjust. Any thoughts? — Dave Earle
Response:
Sounds like a broken blend door. I currently have the same experience on a ‘97 Eddie Bauer.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off or > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always the > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door is > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air > coming out that I can’t adjust. > Any thoughts? > — > Dave Earle
Response:
Define "broken". As in broken in half? or simply maladjusted or disconnected. Is this an easy repair? One that can be done by a DIYer like myself? — Dave Earle
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sounds like a broken blend door. I currently have the same experience on a > ‘97 Eddie Bauer. > My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off > or > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always > the > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door > is > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air > coming out that I can’t adjust. > Any thoughts? > — > Dave Earle
Response:
I haven’t had mine fixed, so I can’t say for sure. But my understanding is that there is a shaft for the motor that control the movement of the blender-door, and this is cracked/stripped. I’m assume your hearing a clicking sound since the motor is still trying to open/close the door. If that’s the case, I hear that its about $800 to fix, revised part from Ford, to remove the entire dash, collect the A/C refrigerant, install new door, and recharge A/C.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Define "broken". As in broken in half? or simply maladjusted or > disconnected. > Is this an easy repair? One that can be done by a DIYer like myself? > — > Dave Earle > Sounds like a broken blend door. I currently have the same experience on > a > ‘97 Eddie Bauer. > > My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. > The > > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it > off > or > > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always > the > > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this > door > is > > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I > can > > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the > air > > coming out that I can’t adjust. > > Any thoughts? > > — > > Dave Earle
Response:
Push the Max A/C button and see if you get cool air. I just had my blend door fixed for around $800. I think the door breaks where the shaft enters the door. Someone said the original door were made from the wrong type plastic.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off or > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always the > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door is > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air > coming out that I can’t adjust. > Any thoughts? > — > Dave Earle
Response:
I just had the opposite experience on my ‘97 EB. No heat at all in any position. I initially thought it was the blend door also. However, the climate control thermometer started to read in Celcius and would not go back to Fahrenheit. I discontected the battery and left it disconnected for an hour or more and then reconnected the battery. This allowed the computers to get rid of any gremlins and sure enough the thermometer switched back to Fahrenheit. The first time I changed the temperature the heating unit started to work properly. I don’t know if this will solve your problem but, it will cost your nothing to give it a try. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal >temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The >problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a >temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off or >open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always the >same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. >How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far >open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door is >jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air >temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can >control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air >coming out that I can’t adjust. >Any thoughts?
Response:
My guess is that your heater blend door has failed. You can do some diagnosis by selecting heat and confirming that the heater hoses under the hood are warm. Then drop the glove box door and look at the top of the heater plenum. As you move the heat control a small motor should move in sync with the setting. If it does, these 2 tests would tend to confirm that the shaft that connects that motor to the blend door is broken. On the other hand, if either test fails, you have a relatively easy fix. That shaft, attached to the blend door, is a small plastic part, and has since been redesigned and is made of nylon or other more durable plastic. Alas, it is integral to the entire heater plenum, and not available separately, so you have to spend about $125, or so, to get the assembly. Alas and alack, that heater plenum removal and replacement requires removal of the entire dashboard, a 10 hour job. You may want to shop the repair around, though, as I have heard prices ranging from under $500 to over $1000 to do this repair. If this turns out to be the case, contact Ford and add your name to the list for people wanting this to be a recall item, which it currently is not. It seems that numbers of failures of a certain component are meaningful to them. Then, save your receipts and hope for a refund some day. Good Luck! =Vic= Bear Gap, PA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off or > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always the > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door is > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air > coming out that I can’t adjust. > Any thoughts? > — > Dave Earle
Response:
I have tried the Max A/C and I get cooler air, but not what I would expect from the Max A/C setting. I told the dealership to recharge it before I took it home, assuming they did then the air is not as cold as it should be. So this sounds like a blend door problem then? Doesn’t sound like fun. — Dave Earle
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Push the Max A/C button and see if you get cool air. I just had my blend > door fixed for around $800. I think the door breaks where the shaft enters > the door. Someone said the original door were made from the wrong type > plastic. > My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off > or > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always > the > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door > is > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air > coming out that I can’t adjust. > Any thoughts? > — > Dave Earle
Response:
Hi Group, I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. Thanks for any help, Ted – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My guess is that your heater blend door has failed. You can do some > diagnosis by selecting heat and confirming that the heater hoses under > the hood are warm. Then drop the glove box door and look at the top of > the heater plenum. As you move the heat control a small motor should > move in sync with the setting. If it does, these 2 tests would tend to > confirm that the shaft that connects that motor to the blend door is > broken. On the other hand, if either test fails, you have a relatively > easy fix. That shaft, attached to the blend door, is a small plastic > part, and has since been redesigned and is made of nylon or other more > durable plastic. Alas, it is integral to the entire heater plenum, and > not available separately, so you have to spend about $125, or so, to get > the assembly. Alas and alack, that heater plenum removal and replacement > requires removal of the entire dashboard, a 10 hour job. You may want to > shop the repair around, though, as I have heard prices ranging from > under $500 to over $1000 to do this repair. > If this turns out to be the case, contact Ford and add your name to the > list for people wanting this to be a recall item, which it currently is > not. It seems that numbers of failures of a certain component are > meaningful to them. Then, save your receipts and hope for a refund some > day. Good Luck! > =Vic= > Bear Gap, PA > My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off or > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always the > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door is > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air > coming out that I can’t adjust. > Any thoughts? > — > Dave Earle
Response:
>Hi Group, >I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve >done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost >ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, >depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to >disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced >thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and >coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button >pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. >Thanks for any help, >Ted
If you’re gonna tackle the blend door replacement yourself, check out this link. It’s got some excellent pictures. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=dc6098b7e427a77b… 7645d8dd486&threadid=59787 Good luck! Billy ‘96 Eddie Bauer
Response:
Great link there. I like the idea of cutting a hole in the box and moving the door manually. Lucky for me, its stuck in the hot position and winter is coming up. I’ll rethink it in the spring. — Dave Earle
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi Group, >I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve >done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost >ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, >depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to >disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced >thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and >coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button >pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. >Thanks for any help, >Ted > If you’re gonna tackle the blend door replacement yourself, check out this > link. It’s got some excellent pictures. > http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=dc6098b7e427a77b… > 7645d8dd486&threadid=59787 > Good luck! > Billy > ‘96 Eddie Bauer
Response:
I checkd out the "Explorer Forum" link for the blend door fix by jjue on that board. I just looked at jjue info on the blend door problem. I fliped down glove box. When I went thru diagnostics (pressed off/floor simultaneously, then relese, then press automatic button) a square (about 4" x 4") door opened then closed when I changed the temp setting. This door is located behind the right side rear of glove box. It runs on approx the same plane as the windshield. It is conected to a round black metal actuator device (about 2" diameter) with a shiny flat metal bar. It plunges up to open door, and down to close it. Am I looking at the "infamous blend door" or it the blend door elsewhere? Thanks, Ted – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Great link there. I like the idea of cutting a hole in the box and moving > the door manually. Lucky for me, its stuck in the hot position and winter > is coming up. I’ll rethink it in the spring. > — > Dave Earle > >Hi Group, > >I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve > >done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost > >ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, > >depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to > >disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced > >thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and > >coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button > >pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. > >Thanks for any help, > >Ted > If you’re gonna tackle the blend door replacement yourself, check out this > link. It’s got some excellent pictures. > http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=dc6098b7e427a77b… > 7645d8dd486&threadid=59787 > Good luck! > Billy > ‘96 Eddie Bauer
Response:
Actually, the "blend" door is mounted internal to the plenum perpendicular to the windshield. I you look to the left and on top of the plenum assm. You can see the "blend door motor" It’s flat and has an electrical connection in front. The issue here is whether it’s the blend door or is the problem the motor? When I changed my blend door I had to replace the entire plenum. Since I didn’t actually know if the problem was the door or the motor I replaced both. And yes you do have to discharge and recharge the AC system, because the mounting bolts for the plenum are under the evaporator assembly. Here’s another thing, you’ll need to replace the drier too because of the exposure to atmosphere when you remove the evap assm. This is not a job for the faint of heart. Removing the dash and AC evap is a serious PITA. BTW – remove the steering column. It really gets in the way and there are a few items that get broken if you knock it around treading the dash on and off. It’s not in any manual I have seen, Haynes etc., but it appears to be relatively painless. I didn’t and paid the price. Hope this helps. Dave Clark 4.0L OHV 97 Explorer Sport K&N FIPK Custom Cat back Exhaust Monroe reflex shocks
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I checkd out the "Explorer Forum" link for the blend door fix by jjue > on that board. > I just looked at jjue info on the blend door problem. I fliped down > glove box. When I went thru diagnostics (pressed off/floor > simultaneously, then relese, then press automatic button) a square > (about 4" x 4") door opened then closed when I changed the temp > setting. This door is located behind the right side rear of glove box. > It runs on approx the same plane as the windshield. It is conected to > a round black metal actuator device (about 2" diameter) with a shiny > flat metal bar. It plunges up to open door, and down to close it. Am I > looking at the "infamous blend door" or it the blend door elsewhere? > Thanks, > Ted
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Great link there. I like the idea of cutting a hole in the box and moving > the door manually. Lucky for me, its stuck in the hot position and winter > is coming up. I’ll rethink it in the spring. > — > Dave Earle > > >Hi Group, > > >I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve > > >done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost > > >ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, > > >depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to > > >disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced > > >thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and > > >coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button > > >pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. > > >Thanks for any help, > > >Ted > > If you’re gonna tackle the blend door replacement yourself, check out this > > link. It’s got some excellent pictures.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=dc6098b7e427a77b… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > 7645d8dd486&threadid=59787 > > Good luck! > > Billy > > ‘96 Eddie Bauer
Response:
Code = 24 Test condn = O,R Definition = Intake air charge temperature sensor or vane air temperature sensor or EDIS fault — O|||||||O O|||||||O 1998 Sahara TJ – 1989 YJ – 1979 IH Scout .
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>I checkd out the "Explorer Forum" link for the blend door fix by jjue >>on that board. >>I just looked at jjue info on the blend door problem. I fliped down >>glove box. When I went thru diagnostics (pressed off/floor >>simultaneously, then relese, then press automatic button) a square >>(about 4" x 4") door opened then closed when I changed the temp >>setting. This door is located behind the right side rear of glove box. >>It runs on approx the same plane as the windshield. It is conected to >>a round black metal actuator device (about 2" diameter) with a shiny >>flat metal bar. It plunges up to open door, and down to close it. Am I >>looking at the "infamous blend door" or it the blend door elsewhere? > When I triggered the diagnostic test, I received a code 024 on the dial of the > climate control. Can anyone tell me what that error code means? >>Thanks, >>Ted >>> Great link there. I like the idea of cutting a hole in the box and moving >>> the door manually. Lucky for me, its stuck in the hot position and winter >>> is coming up. I’ll rethink it in the spring. >>> — >>> Dave Earle >>> > >Hi Group, >>> > >I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve >>> > >done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost >>> > >ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, >>> > >depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to >>> > >disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced >>> > >thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and >>> > >coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button >>> > >pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. >>> > >Thanks for any help, >>> > >Ted >>> > If you’re gonna tackle the blend door replacement yourself, check out this >>> > link. It’s got some excellent pictures.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=dc6098b7e427a77b… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>> > 7645d8dd486&threadid=59787 >>> > Good luck! >>> > Billy >>> > ‘96 Eddie Bauer
Response:
How did you perform this diagnostic test? — Dave Earle 97 Explorer Limited 87 GT Convertible
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>I checkd out the "Explorer Forum" link for the blend door fix by jjue >>on that board. >>I just looked at jjue info on the blend door problem. I fliped down >>glove box. When I went thru diagnostics (pressed off/floor >>simultaneously, then relese, then press automatic button) a square >>(about 4" x 4") door opened then closed when I changed the temp >>setting. This door is located behind the right side rear of glove box. >>It runs on approx the same plane as the windshield. It is conected to >>a round black metal actuator device (about 2" diameter) with a shiny >>flat metal bar. It plunges up to open door, and down to close it. Am I >>looking at the "infamous blend door" or it the blend door elsewhere? > When I triggered the diagnostic test, I received a code 024 on the dial of the > climate control. Can anyone tell me what that error code means? >>Thanks, >>Ted >>> Great link there. I like the idea of cutting a hole in the box and moving >>> the door manually. Lucky for me, its stuck in the hot position and winter >>> is coming up. I’ll rethink it in the spring. >>> — >>> Dave Earle >>> > >Hi Group, >>> > >I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve >>> > >done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost >>> > >ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, >>> > >depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to >>> > >disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced >>> > >thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and >>> > >coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button >>> > >pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. >>> > >Thanks for any help, >>> > >Ted >>> > If you’re gonna tackle the blend door replacement yourself, check out this >>> > link. It’s got some excellent pictures.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=dc6098b7e427a77b… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>> > 7645d8dd486&threadid=59787 >>> > Good luck! >>> > Billy >>> > ‘96 Eddie Bauer
Response:
Great, thanks. I just ran the test and got codes 031 and 115. Any one have any idea what those mean? I’m guessing that I can’t get info from a standard OBDII database. I did hear the motor moving during the test and afterwards when I changed the temp from 65 to 75 so I know its not that. Which leaves the blend door and possibly the internal temp sensor. I’m just guessing at this point, if someone can point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it. Thanks, — Dave Earle 97 Explorer Limited 87 GT Convertible
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>How did you perform this diagnostic test? > Turn ignition switch ON. Climate control can be either off or on. > Press OFF and FLOOR at the same time, then AUTOMATIC within 2 seconds. System > goes through a self test and will either finally give a fault code number or, > will show the display that you get for a brief moment when you turn the ign. > switch on, which apparently tells you that everything is good. > You must then push the BLUE temperature adjust button to clear. > I took my code number to the tech shop that gave me the above info and he will > carry on with his analysis tomorrow. This is far better than replacing stuff on > speculation, when the problem is intermittent. I like a mechanic like that! > Small, high-tech shop that’s known for a hundred miles for accurate diagnostics > and repairs.
Response:
Dave, I’m not sure what the codes mean. Did you do a google search? I "was" getting luke warm air (70 deg), and thought it was blend door. Last night I changed the thermostat. I would have thought if it was the problem, it would have been stuck open (thermo), but it was closed when I took it out. Had decent spring pressure too. Perhaps the spring was opening to early, not allowing it to heat the coolant enough. While I had the air cleaner apart, I sprayed the idle air controler to clean it. When I reassembled it with new thermo, heat worked fine. When I get real motivated, I’ll drop the old thermo into some water, and heat to 195 to see if it pops early or later. Ted – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Great, thanks. I just ran the test and got codes 031 and 115. Any one have > any idea what those mean? I’m guessing that I can’t get info from a > standard OBDII database. > I did hear the motor moving during the test and afterwards when I changed > the temp from 65 to 75 so I know its not that. Which leaves the blend door > and possibly the internal temp sensor. I’m just guessing at this point, if > someone can point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it. > Thanks, > — > Dave Earle > 97 Explorer Limited > 87 GT Convertible > >>How did you perform this diagnostic test? > Turn ignition switch ON. Climate control can be either off or on. > Press OFF and FLOOR at the same time, then AUTOMATIC within 2 seconds. > System > goes through a self test and will either finally give a fault code number > or, > will show the display that you get for a brief moment when you turn the > ign. > switch on, which apparently tells you that everything is good. > You must then push the BLUE temperature adjust button to clear. > I took my code number to the tech shop that gave me the above info and he > will > carry on with his analysis tomorrow. This is far better than replacing > stuff on > speculation, when the problem is intermittent. I like a mechanic like > that! > Small, high-tech shop that’s known for a hundred miles for accurate > diagnostics > and repairs.