It is impossible to argue in good faith with a fool. Montaigne. When the fool in question is the follower of the notorious pedophile Muhammed, it is unnecessary to even start a dialogue. – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - 1. End all mass immigration of muzlims into the Free Western World. 2. Deport all muzlims illegal aliens 3. Deport all legal resident aliens with ties to radical izlam 4. Remove the citizenship of and deport all naturalized and native-born citizens who are supporters of jihad. 5. Publicly renounce and abjure multiculturalism as a societal philosophy. – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - All we need is a popular referendum to let people decide on wether or not they want in the country the followers of the notorious pedophile Muhammed. Just let people decide. Here listed the foundations of izlamic believes: 1 – The disdain of the intellect and of culture 2 – The preservetion of the power of the ayatollahs and imans. 3 – Reducing every event to the idiotic formula: "obedient or disobedient to God". and as a result of that, izlam has slowly become obedience to the opinion of some ayatollah or imam, including even opinions about the way God wants humans to copulate animals. 4 – The instinctive hatred of reason and reality 5 – The subjugation of the istinct of joy 6 – The art of concocting holy lies What Mahomet himself didn’t believe was swallowed readily enough by the idiots among whom he spread his teaching. And here are the key facts of izlam the only religion in which: 1 – The prophet killed and robbed people in the name of Allah 2 – The prophet has commanded followers to kill non-followers, as well as members of other sects of Islam. 3 – The prophet was a notoriuos child molester, he married a girl when she was six years old and he consummated his marriage when she was nine years old. 4 – The prophet, as a "the Messenger of Allah" has authorized followers to lie routinely to non-followers about any/everything, 5 – Truth is never afraid of the spotlight of investigation, but questioning scripture gets the death penalty, 6 – There has never been a reformation. Izlam has survived because of the fear factor and not because it is true. And here is the explanation of the idiotic izlamic mindset: "Men never do evil so completely and cheerfully as when they do it from religious conviction." Blaise Pascal (1623-1662) Nature tells man to consult reason, and to take it for his guide. Religion teaches him that his reason is corrupted, that it is only a treacherous guide, given by a deceitful God to lead his creatures astray. Nature tells man to enlighten himself, to search after truth, to instruct himself in his duties. Religion enjoins him to examine nothing, to remain in ignorance, to fear truth. Paul Henry Thiry D’Holbach By now we should have learned that if facts are your enemy, you are defending lies. And lies hurt the fraudulent-weak, and will crumble under the honest-strong. Insisting on truth and taking responsibility are great virtues. These, and a respect for people as individuals, are the values we have inherited from Greeks, Romans, Jews and Christians to rise from barbarity to civilisation. They are the ideals of the free western civilisation, and the ideals which izlamism are consistently rejecting and fighting against. <> <> <>
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> "The student is gone; the master has arrived." > This became a very popular saying in Iraq after the US ousted Saddam > Hussein. > The situation continues to degrade in occupied Iraq. I know I’m beginning to > sound like a broken record… but the need to describe life on the ground > here continues, as I see it slipping from the news as of late. Overshadowed > by more dramatic stories like car bombs and heavy fighting, the silent > suffering that has become the daily reality here just isn’t catching much > attention. > One exception was the LA Times recently reporting the US military’s claim > that in the last 9 weeks over 800 people in Sadr City have been killed by > occupation forces. Doctors I talked to in the main hospital there confirmed > this, adding that the vast majority of them were women and children. > Salam, one of my Iraqi friends, asks: "Why is the news so quiet about all of > these things? In the last 6 months 20 people I know have been killed, for > nothing! They weren’t fighters — they were just living their life." > This is life in Iraq today. > I’m trying to pay closer attention to these daily occurrences, as I too have > become desensitized by the bombs as I’ve grown more accustomed to this > horrible situation. So I’ll try to point out more of what I’ve noticed as of > late. > It isn’t the huge bombs — the ones make the news, horrendous as they are — > that have the greatest impact on Iraqis. It is the ongoing, daily suffering > of the Iraqi people. People dying from bad water and starving to death > because there aren’t enough jobs just don’t grab the attention that bombs > demand from the media. > And other things… last week Salam was in a car accident, and called to > tell me he was injured. Since it was at night, knowing it was unsafe for me > to leave the hotel he asked me to call a friend to come help him. > Thankfully, Abu Talat was home and quickly drove to his aid. This is the > 9-1-1 service in Iraq. Without much infrastructure to speak of, Iraqis have > come to rely more and more on their friends, families, tribes, and mosques. > Then there are the constant reminders to Iraqis of how little control they > have over their lives. > Driving across the double bridge (formerly Saddam Bridge) in south Baghdad > there are huge, black metal sheets along one side of the top of it. On each > of them is written: > Dahr Jamail is Baghdad correspondent for The NewStandard. He is an Alaskan > devoted to covering the untold stories from occupied Iraq. You can help Dahr > continue his crucial work in Iraq by making donations. For more information > or to donate to Dahr, visit The NewStandard. > http://newstandardnews.net/dahr/
"The student is gone; the master has arrived." This became a very popular saying in Iraq after the US ousted Saddam Hussein. The situation continues to degrade in occupied Iraq. I know I’m beginning to sound like a broken record… but the need to describe life on the ground here continues, as I see it slipping from the news as of late. Overshadowed by more dramatic stories like car bombs and heavy fighting, the silent suffering that has become the daily reality here just isn’t catching much attention. One exception was the LA Times recently reporting the US military’s claim that in the last 9 weeks over 800 people in Sadr City have been killed by occupation forces. Doctors I talked to in the main hospital there confirmed this, adding that the vast majority of them were women and children. Salam, one of my Iraqi friends, asks: "Why is the news so quiet about all of these things? In the last 6 months 20 people I know have been killed, for nothing! They weren’t fighters — they were just living their life." This is life in Iraq today. I’m trying to pay closer attention to these daily occurrences, as I too have become desensitized by the bombs as I’ve grown more accustomed to this horrible situation. So I’ll try to point out more of what I’ve noticed as of late. It isn’t the huge bombs — the ones make the news, horrendous as they are — that have the greatest impact on Iraqis. It is the ongoing, daily suffering of the Iraqi people. People dying from bad water and starving to death because there aren’t enough jobs just don’t grab the attention that bombs demand from the media. And other things… last week Salam was in a car accident, and called to tell me he was injured. Since it was at night, knowing it was unsafe for me to leave the hotel he asked me to call a friend to come help him. Thankfully, Abu Talat was home and quickly drove to his aid. This is the 9-1-1 service in Iraq. Without much infrastructure to speak of, Iraqis have come to rely more and more on their friends, families, tribes, and mosques. Then there are the constant reminders to Iraqis of how little control they have over their lives. Driving across the double bridge (formerly Saddam Bridge) in south Baghdad there are huge, black metal sheets along one side of the top of it. On each of them is written: Dahr Jamail is Baghdad correspondent for The NewStandard. He is an Alaskan devoted to covering the untold stories from occupied Iraq. You can help Dahr continue his crucial work in Iraq by making donations. For more information or to donate to Dahr, visit The NewStandard. http://newstandardnews.net/dahr/
> I really didn’t need to see that. Now I want one of those adjustable > bridges.
Tell me about it. I’ve got a black metal tailpiece on my EUB. I think a pretty figured wooden tailpiece would be "the cat’s ass." — O< "He has Van Gogh’s ear for music." — Billy Wilder /() ^^ Slidell, LA
>> I really didn’t need to see that. Now I want one of those adjustable > bridges. >Tell me about it. I’ve got a black metal tailpiece on my EUB. I think >a pretty figured wooden tailpiece would be "the cat’s ass."
It also might drastically change the sound. Be careful. jeffb van.bc.ca
There are different and look great on any upright. Don
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I really didn’t need to see that. Now I want one of those adjustable > bridges. > — > Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm > "Speaking the Truth in times of Universal deceit is a revolutionary act." — > George Orwell > > HI Everyone: > > I’m in the process of building an Electric Upright Bass, does anybody > know > > where I can purchase a 5 to 6 inch tailpiece? The normal 13 inch > tailpiece > > for an acoustic upright is too long. > > Thank you for your help. > Don, > You could ask these folks: > http://www.mikepecanicmusic.com/home.html > — > O< "He has Van Gogh’s ear for music." — Billy Wilder > /() > ^^ Slidell, LA
>You could ask these folks: >http://www.mikepecanicmusic.com/home.html
What a great looking bridge. It’s really got the ol’ wheels spinning about the options of mounting individual piezos in each section… jeffb van.bc.ca
HI Everyone: I’m in the process of building an Electric Upright Bass, does anybody know where I can purchase a 5 to 6 inch tailpiece? The normal 13 inch tailpiece for an acoustic upright is too long. Thank you for your help. Don
Try using a cello tailpiece. — Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm "Speaking the Truth in times of Universal deceit is a revolutionary act." — George Orwell
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HI Everyone: > I’m in the process of building an Electric Upright Bass, does anybody know > where I can purchase a 5 to 6 inch tailpiece? The normal 13 inch tailpiece > for an acoustic upright is too long. > Thank you for your help. > Don
> HI Everyone: > I’m in the process of building an Electric Upright Bass, does anybody know > where I can purchase a 5 to 6 inch tailpiece? The normal 13 inch tailpiece > for an acoustic upright is too long. > Thank you for your help.
Don, You could ask these folks: http://www.mikepecanicmusic.com/home.html — O< "He has Van Gogh’s ear for music." — Billy Wilder /() ^^ Slidell, LA
Thank you John that is an ideal I didn’t think off and to Kloka-mo for your link to Mikepecanic music web site. Looks like they could make whatever I need. I knew you guys would have an answer for me. Thank you very much. Don – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HI Everyone: > I’m in the process of building an Electric Upright Bass, does anybody know > where I can purchase a 5 to 6 inch tailpiece? The normal 13 inch tailpiece > for an acoustic upright is too long. > Thank you for your help. > Don
I really didn’t need to see that. Now I want one of those adjustable bridges. — Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm "Speaking the Truth in times of Universal deceit is a revolutionary act." — George Orwell
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> HI Everyone: > I’m in the process of building an Electric Upright Bass, does anybody know > where I can purchase a 5 to 6 inch tailpiece? The normal 13 inch tailpiece > for an acoustic upright is too long. > Thank you for your help. > Don, > You could ask these folks: > http://www.mikepecanicmusic.com/home.html > — > O< "He has Van Gogh’s ear for music." — Billy Wilder > /() > ^^ Slidell, LA
The black metal trim around the rear window on my 97 XLT is all oxidixed, to the point you can start to see the bare metal underneath. Any tips on how to restore ? TIA Pat
Krylon… if the metal were not showing through you could use a rubbing compound to bring back the shine, but if it is THAT oxidized (I have seen several this way) you have to repaint it. So you can either take it to a shop, or do it yourself. You can achieve EXCELLENT results if you are careful though just by sanding it lightly, mask it off, put a couple coats of primer , sand lightly again, and then a few coats of Spray paint. I prefer the matte finish to gloss myself, and the last time I did something like this, I used semi-flat black Krylon, and the results were wonderful. In fact they looked so good that I pulled the chrome grille and painted it to match!! Of course if you have a spray gun, and are handy with it, you can buy actual automotive paint, but IMO it’s not worth the extra $$$…
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> The black metal trim around the rear window on my 97 XLT is all oxidixed, > to the point you can start to see the bare metal underneath. Any tips on > how to restore ? > TIA > Pat
Appreciate the response. It’ll give me something to do this summer.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Krylon… > if the metal were not showing through you could use a rubbing compound to > bring back the shine, but if it is THAT oxidized (I have seen several this > way) you have to repaint it. > So you can either take it to a shop, or do it yourself. You can achieve > EXCELLENT results if you are careful though just by sanding it lightly, mask > it off, put a couple coats of primer , sand lightly again, and then a few > coats of Spray paint. > I prefer the matte finish to gloss myself, and the last time I did something > like this, I used semi-flat black Krylon, and the results were wonderful. > In fact they looked so good that I pulled the chrome grille and painted it > to match!! > Of course if you have a spray gun, and are handy with it, you can buy actual > automotive paint, but IMO it’s not worth the extra $$$… > The black metal trim around the rear window on my 97 XLT is all oxidixed, > to the point you can start to see the bare metal underneath. Any tips on > how to restore ? > TIA > Pat
Chief is right about the "matte" paint. Gloss will look cheezy the minute you step back to survey your results and "flat" paint seems to develop shiny spots quickly. — Jim Warman
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Krylon… > if the metal were not showing through you could use a rubbing compound to > bring back the shine, but if it is THAT oxidized (I have seen several this > way) you have to repaint it. > So you can either take it to a shop, or do it yourself. You can achieve > EXCELLENT results if you are careful though just by sanding it lightly, mask > it off, put a couple coats of primer , sand lightly again, and then a few > coats of Spray paint. > I prefer the matte finish to gloss myself, and the last time I did something > like this, I used semi-flat black Krylon, and the results were wonderful. > In fact they looked so good that I pulled the chrome grille and painted it > to match!! > Of course if you have a spray gun, and are handy with it, you can buy actual > automotive paint, but IMO it’s not worth the extra $$$… > The black metal trim around the rear window on my 97 XLT is all oxidixed, > to the point you can start to see the bare metal underneath. Any tips on > how to restore ? > TIA > Pat
Same problem with my ‘96 XLT. I used a black satin finish spray paint with very good resuts. Suggest using a good quality spray paint (such as the suggested Krylon). I removed the rear glass (get a helper) and that helped with the overall job. You may also want to do the vertical posts between the doors (assuming you don’t have the 2-door Sport version) since the same problem will happen to them sooner or later. And finally…while you’re at it check the 2 hinge bolts that protrude trough the tailgate window. They tend to rust and cause a rainbow rust stain to appear below the bolts. bt – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Krylon… > if the metal were not showing through you could use a rubbing compound to > bring back the shine, but if it is THAT oxidized (I have seen several this > way) you have to repaint it. > So you can either take it to a shop, or do it yourself. You can achieve > EXCELLENT results if you are careful though just by sanding it lightly, mask > it off, put a couple coats of primer , sand lightly again, and then a few > coats of Spray paint. > I prefer the matte finish to gloss myself, and the last time I did something > like this, I used semi-flat black Krylon, and the results were wonderful. > In fact they looked so good that I pulled the chrome grille and painted it > to match!! > Of course if you have a spray gun, and are handy with it, you can buy actual > automotive paint, but IMO it’s not worth the extra $$$… > The black metal trim around the rear window on my 97 XLT is all oxidixed, > to the point you can start to see the bare metal underneath. Any tips on > how to restore ? > TIA > Pat
My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off or open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always the same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door is jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air coming out that I can’t adjust. Any thoughts? — Dave Earle
Sounds like a broken blend door. I currently have the same experience on a ‘97 Eddie Bauer.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off or > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always the > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door is > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air > coming out that I can’t adjust. > Any thoughts? > — > Dave Earle
Define "broken". As in broken in half? or simply maladjusted or disconnected. Is this an easy repair? One that can be done by a DIYer like myself? — Dave Earle
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Sounds like a broken blend door. I currently have the same experience on a > ‘97 Eddie Bauer. > My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off > or > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always > the > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door > is > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air > coming out that I can’t adjust. > Any thoughts? > — > Dave Earle
I haven’t had mine fixed, so I can’t say for sure. But my understanding is that there is a shaft for the motor that control the movement of the blender-door, and this is cracked/stripped. I’m assume your hearing a clicking sound since the motor is still trying to open/close the door. If that’s the case, I hear that its about $800 to fix, revised part from Ford, to remove the entire dash, collect the A/C refrigerant, install new door, and recharge A/C.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Define "broken". As in broken in half? or simply maladjusted or > disconnected. > Is this an easy repair? One that can be done by a DIYer like myself? > — > Dave Earle > Sounds like a broken blend door. I currently have the same experience on > a > ‘97 Eddie Bauer. > > My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. > The > > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it > off > or > > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always > the > > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this > door > is > > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I > can > > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the > air > > coming out that I can’t adjust. > > Any thoughts? > > — > > Dave Earle
Push the Max A/C button and see if you get cool air. I just had my blend door fixed for around $800. I think the door breaks where the shaft enters the door. Someone said the original door were made from the wrong type plastic.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off or > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always the > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door is > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air > coming out that I can’t adjust. > Any thoughts? > — > Dave Earle
I just had the opposite experience on my ‘97 EB. No heat at all in any position. I initially thought it was the blend door also. However, the climate control thermometer started to read in Celcius and would not go back to Fahrenheit. I discontected the battery and left it disconnected for an hour or more and then reconnected the battery. This allowed the computers to get rid of any gremlins and sure enough the thermometer switched back to Fahrenheit. The first time I changed the temperature the heating unit started to work properly. I don’t know if this will solve your problem but, it will cost your nothing to give it a try. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal >temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The >problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a >temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off or >open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always the >same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. >How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far >open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door is >jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air >temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can >control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air >coming out that I can’t adjust. >Any thoughts?
My guess is that your heater blend door has failed. You can do some diagnosis by selecting heat and confirming that the heater hoses under the hood are warm. Then drop the glove box door and look at the top of the heater plenum. As you move the heat control a small motor should move in sync with the setting. If it does, these 2 tests would tend to confirm that the shaft that connects that motor to the blend door is broken. On the other hand, if either test fails, you have a relatively easy fix. That shaft, attached to the blend door, is a small plastic part, and has since been redesigned and is made of nylon or other more durable plastic. Alas, it is integral to the entire heater plenum, and not available separately, so you have to spend about $125, or so, to get the assembly. Alas and alack, that heater plenum removal and replacement requires removal of the entire dashboard, a 10 hour job. You may want to shop the repair around, though, as I have heard prices ranging from under $500 to over $1000 to do this repair. If this turns out to be the case, contact Ford and add your name to the list for people wanting this to be a recall item, which it currently is not. It seems that numbers of failures of a certain component are meaningful to them. Then, save your receipts and hope for a refund some day. Good Luck! =Vic= Bear Gap, PA – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off or > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always the > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door is > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air > coming out that I can’t adjust. > Any thoughts? > — > Dave Earle
I have tried the Max A/C and I get cooler air, but not what I would expect from the Max A/C setting. I told the dealership to recharge it before I took it home, assuming they did then the air is not as cold as it should be. So this sounds like a blend door problem then? Doesn’t sound like fun. — Dave Earle
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Push the Max A/C button and see if you get cool air. I just had my blend > door fixed for around $800. I think the door breaks where the shaft enters > the door. Someone said the original door were made from the wrong type > plastic. > My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off > or > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always > the > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door > is > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air > coming out that I can’t adjust. > Any thoughts? > — > Dave Earle
Hi Group, I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. Thanks for any help, Ted – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > My guess is that your heater blend door has failed. You can do some > diagnosis by selecting heat and confirming that the heater hoses under > the hood are warm. Then drop the glove box door and look at the top of > the heater plenum. As you move the heat control a small motor should > move in sync with the setting. If it does, these 2 tests would tend to > confirm that the shaft that connects that motor to the blend door is > broken. On the other hand, if either test fails, you have a relatively > easy fix. That shaft, attached to the blend door, is a small plastic > part, and has since been redesigned and is made of nylon or other more > durable plastic. Alas, it is integral to the entire heater plenum, and > not available separately, so you have to spend about $125, or so, to get > the assembly. Alas and alack, that heater plenum removal and replacement > requires removal of the entire dashboard, a 10 hour job. You may want to > shop the repair around, though, as I have heard prices ranging from > under $500 to over $1000 to do this repair. > If this turns out to be the case, contact Ford and add your name to the > list for people wanting this to be a recall item, which it currently is > not. It seems that numbers of failures of a certain component are > meaningful to them. Then, save your receipts and hope for a refund some > day. Good Luck! > =Vic= > Bear Gap, PA > My 97 Limited has the climate control where I select the internal > temperature between 60 degrees Fahrenheit and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. The > problem I am having is that it makes no difference what I select for a > temperature, the heat is always unbearable and I am forced to turn it off or > open windows. Whether the system is set at 60 or 80 the heat is always the > same and it eventually gets too warm in the cab. > How does this system work? Does the temperature I choose decide how far > open the door on the heater box should be? Is it possible that this door is > jammed? Or maybe there is a module that is supposed to sense the air > temperature and because this module is broken the heat remains on? I can > control the fan, low to high works fine, it is the temperature of the air > coming out that I can’t adjust. > Any thoughts? > — > Dave Earle
>Hi Group, >I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve >done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost >ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, >depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to >disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced >thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and >coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button >pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. >Thanks for any help, >Ted
If you’re gonna tackle the blend door replacement yourself, check out this link. It’s got some excellent pictures. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=dc6098b7e427a77b… 7645d8dd486&threadid=59787 Good luck! Billy ‘96 Eddie Bauer
Great link there. I like the idea of cutting a hole in the box and moving the door manually. Lucky for me, its stuck in the hot position and winter is coming up. I’ll rethink it in the spring. — Dave Earle
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->Hi Group, >I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve >done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost >ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, >depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to >disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced >thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and >coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button >pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. >Thanks for any help, >Ted > If you’re gonna tackle the blend door replacement yourself, check out this > link. It’s got some excellent pictures. > http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=dc6098b7e427a77b… > 7645d8dd486&threadid=59787 > Good luck! > Billy > ‘96 Eddie Bauer
I checkd out the "Explorer Forum" link for the blend door fix by jjue on that board. I just looked at jjue info on the blend door problem. I fliped down glove box. When I went thru diagnostics (pressed off/floor simultaneously, then relese, then press automatic button) a square (about 4" x 4") door opened then closed when I changed the temp setting. This door is located behind the right side rear of glove box. It runs on approx the same plane as the windshield. It is conected to a round black metal actuator device (about 2" diameter) with a shiny flat metal bar. It plunges up to open door, and down to close it. Am I looking at the "infamous blend door" or it the blend door elsewhere? Thanks, Ted – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Great link there. I like the idea of cutting a hole in the box and moving > the door manually. Lucky for me, its stuck in the hot position and winter > is coming up. I’ll rethink it in the spring. > — > Dave Earle > >Hi Group, > >I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve > >done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost > >ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, > >depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to > >disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced > >thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and > >coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button > >pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. > >Thanks for any help, > >Ted > If you’re gonna tackle the blend door replacement yourself, check out this > link. It’s got some excellent pictures. > http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=dc6098b7e427a77b… > 7645d8dd486&threadid=59787 > Good luck! > Billy > ‘96 Eddie Bauer
Actually, the "blend" door is mounted internal to the plenum perpendicular to the windshield. I you look to the left and on top of the plenum assm. You can see the "blend door motor" It’s flat and has an electrical connection in front. The issue here is whether it’s the blend door or is the problem the motor? When I changed my blend door I had to replace the entire plenum. Since I didn’t actually know if the problem was the door or the motor I replaced both. And yes you do have to discharge and recharge the AC system, because the mounting bolts for the plenum are under the evaporator assembly. Here’s another thing, you’ll need to replace the drier too because of the exposure to atmosphere when you remove the evap assm. This is not a job for the faint of heart. Removing the dash and AC evap is a serious PITA. BTW – remove the steering column. It really gets in the way and there are a few items that get broken if you knock it around treading the dash on and off. It’s not in any manual I have seen, Haynes etc., but it appears to be relatively painless. I didn’t and paid the price. Hope this helps. Dave Clark 4.0L OHV 97 Explorer Sport K&N FIPK Custom Cat back Exhaust Monroe reflex shocks
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I checkd out the "Explorer Forum" link for the blend door fix by jjue > on that board. > I just looked at jjue info on the blend door problem. I fliped down > glove box. When I went thru diagnostics (pressed off/floor > simultaneously, then relese, then press automatic button) a square > (about 4" x 4") door opened then closed when I changed the temp > setting. This door is located behind the right side rear of glove box. > It runs on approx the same plane as the windshield. It is conected to > a round black metal actuator device (about 2" diameter) with a shiny > flat metal bar. It plunges up to open door, and down to close it. Am I > looking at the "infamous blend door" or it the blend door elsewhere? > Thanks, > Ted
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Great link there. I like the idea of cutting a hole in the box and moving > the door manually. Lucky for me, its stuck in the hot position and winter > is coming up. I’ll rethink it in the spring. > — > Dave Earle > > >Hi Group, > > >I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve > > >done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost > > >ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, > > >depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to > > >disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced > > >thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and > > >coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button > > >pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. > > >Thanks for any help, > > >Ted > > If you’re gonna tackle the blend door replacement yourself, check out this > > link. It’s got some excellent pictures.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=dc6098b7e427a77b… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> > 7645d8dd486&threadid=59787 > > Good luck! > > Billy > > ‘96 Eddie Bauer
Code = 24 Test condn = O,R Definition = Intake air charge temperature sensor or vane air temperature sensor or EDIS fault — O|||||||O O|||||||O 1998 Sahara TJ – 1989 YJ – 1979 IH Scout .
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>I checkd out the "Explorer Forum" link for the blend door fix by jjue >>on that board. >>I just looked at jjue info on the blend door problem. I fliped down >>glove box. When I went thru diagnostics (pressed off/floor >>simultaneously, then relese, then press automatic button) a square >>(about 4" x 4") door opened then closed when I changed the temp >>setting. This door is located behind the right side rear of glove box. >>It runs on approx the same plane as the windshield. It is conected to >>a round black metal actuator device (about 2" diameter) with a shiny >>flat metal bar. It plunges up to open door, and down to close it. Am I >>looking at the "infamous blend door" or it the blend door elsewhere? > When I triggered the diagnostic test, I received a code 024 on the dial of the > climate control. Can anyone tell me what that error code means? >>Thanks, >>Ted >>> Great link there. I like the idea of cutting a hole in the box and moving >>> the door manually. Lucky for me, its stuck in the hot position and winter >>> is coming up. I’ll rethink it in the spring. >>> — >>> Dave Earle >>> > >Hi Group, >>> > >I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve >>> > >done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost >>> > >ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, >>> > >depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to >>> > >disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced >>> > >thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and >>> > >coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button >>> > >pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. >>> > >Thanks for any help, >>> > >Ted >>> > If you’re gonna tackle the blend door replacement yourself, check out this >>> > link. It’s got some excellent pictures.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=dc6098b7e427a77b… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>> > 7645d8dd486&threadid=59787 >>> > Good luck! >>> > Billy >>> > ‘96 Eddie Bauer
How did you perform this diagnostic test? — Dave Earle 97 Explorer Limited 87 GT Convertible
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>I checkd out the "Explorer Forum" link for the blend door fix by jjue >>on that board. >>I just looked at jjue info on the blend door problem. I fliped down >>glove box. When I went thru diagnostics (pressed off/floor >>simultaneously, then relese, then press automatic button) a square >>(about 4" x 4") door opened then closed when I changed the temp >>setting. This door is located behind the right side rear of glove box. >>It runs on approx the same plane as the windshield. It is conected to >>a round black metal actuator device (about 2" diameter) with a shiny >>flat metal bar. It plunges up to open door, and down to close it. Am I >>looking at the "infamous blend door" or it the blend door elsewhere? > When I triggered the diagnostic test, I received a code 024 on the dial of the > climate control. Can anyone tell me what that error code means? >>Thanks, >>Ted >>> Great link there. I like the idea of cutting a hole in the box and moving >>> the door manually. Lucky for me, its stuck in the hot position and winter >>> is coming up. I’ll rethink it in the spring. >>> — >>> Dave Earle >>> > >Hi Group, >>> > >I’m getting a luke warm condition in a 95 EB with AutoClimate. I’ve >>> > >done alot of research thru Google about this problem, and I’m almost >>> > >ready to tackle the blend door replacement or actuator replacement, >>> > >depending on what’s wrong (HOPEFULLY the Later!) Is it necessary to >>> > >disconect A/C and recharge, to replace the blend door? Replaced >>> > >thermo and Auto coolant temp control valve (under hood) 2 yrs ago and >>> > >coolant level is fine. I’ll also run the diagnostic" test, via button >>> > >pushing technique, to look for trouble codes. >>> > >Thanks for any help, >>> > >Ted >>> > If you’re gonna tackle the blend door replacement yourself, check out this >>> > link. It’s got some excellent pictures.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=dc6098b7e427a77b… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>> > 7645d8dd486&threadid=59787 >>> > Good luck! >>> > Billy >>> > ‘96 Eddie Bauer
Great, thanks. I just ran the test and got codes 031 and 115. Any one have any idea what those mean? I’m guessing that I can’t get info from a standard OBDII database. I did hear the motor moving during the test and afterwards when I changed the temp from 65 to 75 so I know its not that. Which leaves the blend door and possibly the internal temp sensor. I’m just guessing at this point, if someone can point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it. Thanks, — Dave Earle 97 Explorer Limited 87 GT Convertible
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text ->>How did you perform this diagnostic test? > Turn ignition switch ON. Climate control can be either off or on. > Press OFF and FLOOR at the same time, then AUTOMATIC within 2 seconds. System > goes through a self test and will either finally give a fault code number or, > will show the display that you get for a brief moment when you turn the ign. > switch on, which apparently tells you that everything is good. > You must then push the BLUE temperature adjust button to clear. > I took my code number to the tech shop that gave me the above info and he will > carry on with his analysis tomorrow. This is far better than replacing stuff on > speculation, when the problem is intermittent. I like a mechanic like that! > Small, high-tech shop that’s known for a hundred miles for accurate diagnostics > and repairs.
Dave, I’m not sure what the codes mean. Did you do a google search? I "was" getting luke warm air (70 deg), and thought it was blend door. Last night I changed the thermostat. I would have thought if it was the problem, it would have been stuck open (thermo), but it was closed when I took it out. Had decent spring pressure too. Perhaps the spring was opening to early, not allowing it to heat the coolant enough. While I had the air cleaner apart, I sprayed the idle air controler to clean it. When I reassembled it with new thermo, heat worked fine. When I get real motivated, I’ll drop the old thermo into some water, and heat to 195 to see if it pops early or later. Ted – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Great, thanks. I just ran the test and got codes 031 and 115. Any one have > any idea what those mean? I’m guessing that I can’t get info from a > standard OBDII database. > I did hear the motor moving during the test and afterwards when I changed > the temp from 65 to 75 so I know its not that. Which leaves the blend door > and possibly the internal temp sensor. I’m just guessing at this point, if > someone can point me in the right direction I’d appreciate it. > Thanks, > — > Dave Earle > 97 Explorer Limited > 87 GT Convertible > >>How did you perform this diagnostic test? > Turn ignition switch ON. Climate control can be either off or on. > Press OFF and FLOOR at the same time, then AUTOMATIC within 2 seconds. > System > goes through a self test and will either finally give a fault code number > or, > will show the display that you get for a brief moment when you turn the > ign. > switch on, which apparently tells you that everything is good. > You must then push the BLUE temperature adjust button to clear. > I took my code number to the tech shop that gave me the above info and he > will > carry on with his analysis tomorrow. This is far better than replacing > stuff on > speculation, when the problem is intermittent. I like a mechanic like > that! > Small, high-tech shop that’s known for a hundred miles for accurate > diagnostics > and repairs.
I have a Whirlpool that is condensing water on the bottom of my fridge. What could be wrong?
>I have a Whirlpool that is condensing water on the bottom of my fridge. >What could be wrong?
Look at the door seal. We had that problem and found that the seal had torn at the bottom allowing more outside (i.e. moist) air into the fridge. Replaced the seal and ended the problem.
> I have a Whirlpool that is condensing water on the bottom of my fridge. > What could be wrong?
the drain tube is blocked up.. if its a typical frig on top type like i have well you do this: remove the light covers in the back of the refrig.(the bottom part) and then you see a thing that is attached to the back of the wall of the ref… its shaped like a funnel and goes into a hole in the back wall… it is suppose to catch the melted waster from the freezer and funnel it down to the drain pain under the refrig.. if you pull this funnel off clean it out… then take a turkey baster(a large plastic thing that looks like an eye dropper, cost about $2.00 at walgreen drugs or $1.00 at most dollar store… fill up a bowl of hot water and use this turkey baster to flood out the hole in the back of the refrig… remove the bottom grill(black metal covering on the very bottom of the refrig. and look under there with a flashlight for the drip pan.. if the tube in the back of the wall of the refrig. is not blocked then the water will drip down into the pan… if it does not drip then take a flexible wire, like a 3 to 4 foot piece of old lamp cord and feed it into the back hole of the ref. to push out any debris that might be blocking it….. this should cure the problem and last for about 5 to 6 months… it did for me… the moisture is the melted ice from the defrost cycle on the freezer top and is not flowing down to the drip pan where it will evaporate into the outside air…. hope this helps.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I have a Whirlpool that is condensing water on the bottom of my fridge. > What could be wrong? > the drain tube is blocked up.. if its a typical frig on top type like i > have well you do this: remove the light covers in the back of the > refrig.(the bottom part) and then you see a thing that is attached to > the back of the wall of the ref… its shaped like a funnel and goes > into a hole in the back wall… it is suppose to catch the melted waster > from the freezer and funnel it down to the drain pain under the refrig.. > if you pull this funnel off clean it out… then take a turkey baster(a > large plastic thing that looks like an eye dropper, cost about $2.00 at > walgreen drugs or $1.00 at most dollar store… fill up a bowl of hot > water and use this turkey baster to flood out the hole in the back of > the refrig… remove the bottom grill(black metal covering on the very > bottom of the refrig. and look under there with a flashlight for the > drip pan.. if the tube in the back of the wall of the refrig. is not > blocked then the water will drip down into the pan… if it does not > drip then take a flexible wire, like a 3 to 4 foot piece of old lamp > cord and feed it into the back hole of the ref. to push out any debris > that might be blocking it….. this should cure the problem and last for > about 5 to 6 months… it did for me… the moisture is the melted ice > from the defrost cycle on the freezer top and is not flowing down to the > drip pan where it will evaporate into the outside air…. > hope this helps.
Hi, Some extra help/info….. http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_leaking.html#inside jeff.
>I have a Whirlpool that is condensing water on the bottom of my fridge. >What could be wrong?
If it were condensation, it would be forming on the ceiling of the refrigerator section and only collecting under the crisper drawers once it dripped down. In that case leaking door seals as Rileyesi suggested could be the cause. If water is just ending up there, than Jim’s suggestion of a plugged defrost water drain is a very likely cause. Dan O. – Appliance411.com http://ng.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Whirlpool+fridge =
Well, quite a response. I stand by my answer, chrome is on the out….. I keep thinking of all the ricers that go to the local parts store and by all that stick on chrome, looks tacky. Now a little bit of subtle chrome is ok, but not over board. Them new jettas I feel are over board. I drive a 1995 Monte Z34, with NO chrome except the "black chrome" instert in the side moulding and bumpers, which is "subtle". The base model Monte and the Monte LS have that dumbass looking crome strip on the hood, doesn’t appeal to me. Say what you will, chrome looks good on cars it came on, but not for this day and age. Steve
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Steve Mackie wrote : Chrome is on the out. > Steve, > Are you in favor of a dull flat black rubber covered window frame on a > car door ( e.g. 97 Bonnevillle ) or one that was a shiny colored metal > or chrome window frame? > Do you prefer blackout mouldings like so many cars have today. Well > black absorbs heat & sunlight and turns dull very quickly. > I would certainly welcome more chrome on a car. This age of color coding > crap is rediculous. Only 3 things inside my car are chrome 1, window > sill strips, 2, LH Mirror control knob, 3, seat belt buckles. > The body side mouldings and bumpers have Plastic chrome inserts and the > window sill mouldings are chrome. The newer Bonnies are black metal. > I hate color coded interiors. I saw a taupe colored interior in a GTP > and the dash bezel, console & steering wheel is a dark graphite color. > Puke ! Who the hell at GM ever thought of combining a graphite color > to make the dash bezel, console and steering wheel 1 color… > Harrface > Presently cruising in ~_~_~_>> > 4. 1991 Pontiac Bonneville, 240,000 miles > 1. 1973 Chevy Impala 4 door, 1980 – 83 > 2. 1968 Buick LeSabre Convertible, 1983-86 > 3. 1978 Olds Holiday 88, 1986 -91 > 5. 1989 Chevy Cavalier Z- 24 Convertible, 1996 to 2000
Steve Mackie wrote : Chrome is on the out. Steve, Are you in favor of a dull flat black rubber covered window frame on a car door ( e.g. 97 Bonnevillle ) or one that was a shiny colored metal or chrome window frame? Do you prefer blackout mouldings like so many cars have today. Well black absorbs heat & sunlight and turns dull very quickly. I would certainly welcome more chrome on a car. This age of color coding crap is rediculous. Only 3 things inside my car are chrome 1, window sill strips, 2, LH Mirror control knob, 3, seat belt buckles. The body side mouldings and bumpers have Plastic chrome inserts and the window sill mouldings are chrome. The newer Bonnies are black metal. I hate color coded interiors. I saw a taupe colored interior in a GTP and the dash bezel, console & steering wheel is a dark graphite color. Puke ! Who the hell at GM ever thought of combining a graphite color to make the dash bezel, console and steering wheel 1 color… Harrface Presently cruising in ~_~_~_>> 4. 1991 Pontiac Bonneville, 240,000 miles 1. 1973 Chevy Impala 4 door, 1980 – 83 2. 1968 Buick LeSabre Convertible, 1983-86 3. 1978 Olds Holiday 88, 1986 -91 5. 1989 Chevy Cavalier Z- 24 Convertible, 1996 to 2000
Wish it would come back. Lots and lots of it. No chrome looks cheap. — Dennis Smith AIM SN: Dens71TA ICQ Pager #: 52009584 ’71 Trans Am – 455 H.O. – TH400 auto – Cameo white/blue stripe (soon to be a M21 4-speed Muncie …) ’73 Trans Am – 455 – TH400 auto – Buccaneer red ’84 Trans Am – 5.0 L – TH700R4 auto – Royal blue/silver aero
> Wish it would come back. Lots and lots of it. No chrome looks cheap.
oh how I wish I could find the picture of the lowered blazer with 12" daytons and autozone stick on chrome everywhere right now…
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Notice how they eliminated all the chrome? Guess why??? Lets just not buy > these monsters until they give us this stuff back.. > Wait until after Oct 1 and you can get credit for the leather (=getting in > free) on most all GM cars (not trucks). Offer will be good for a limited > time. > Jerry H. > > > I saw some 2003 Monte Carlo’s and Impala LS’s today. > > I’m afraid this is Mr. Lutz’s philosophy creeping in: de-content the > > cars to increase the profit margin. His rationale is that Japanese cars > > are like that and sell like hot cakes. Well, I guess they sell for > > other reasons, but because they are stripped down. > > Having had a Dodge and having a GM, it saddens me that my Pontiac will > > become like my Dodge in the future… :^( > > — > > Evandro Menezes ICQ:7957253 > > Austin, TX http://geocities.com/evandro
Notice how they eliminated all the chrome? Guess why??? Lets just not buy these monsters until they give us this stuff back..
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Wait until after Oct 1 and you can get credit for the leather (=getting in > free) on most all GM cars (not trucks). Offer will be good for a limited > time. > Jerry H. > > I saw some 2003 Monte Carlo’s and Impala LS’s today. > I’m afraid this is Mr. Lutz’s philosophy creeping in: de-content the > cars to increase the profit margin. His rationale is that Japanese cars > are like that and sell like hot cakes. Well, I guess they sell for > other reasons, but because they are stripped down. > Having had a Dodge and having a GM, it saddens me that my Pontiac will > become like my Dodge in the future… :^( > — > Evandro Menezes ICQ:7957253 > Austin, TX http://geocities.com/evandro
> I saw some 2003 Monte Carlo’s and Impala LS’s today.
I’m afraid this is Mr. Lutz’s philosophy creeping in: de-content the cars to increase the profit margin. His rationale is that Japanese cars are like that and sell like hot cakes. Well, I guess they sell for other reasons, but because they are stripped down. Having had a Dodge and having a GM, it saddens me that my Pontiac will become like my Dodge in the future… :^( — Evandro Menezes ICQ:7957253 Austin, TX http://geocities.com/evandro
Wait until after Oct 1 and you can get credit for the leather (=getting in free) on most all GM cars (not trucks). Offer will be good for a limited time. Jerry H.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I saw some 2003 Monte Carlo’s and Impala LS’s today. > I’m afraid this is Mr. Lutz’s philosophy creeping in: de-content the > cars to increase the profit margin. His rationale is that Japanese cars > are like that and sell like hot cakes. Well, I guess they sell for > other reasons, but because they are stripped down. > Having had a Dodge and having a GM, it saddens me that my Pontiac will > become like my Dodge in the future… :^( > — > Evandro Menezes ICQ:7957253 > Austin, TX http://geocities.com/evandro
I saw some 2003 Monte Carlo’s and Impala LS’s today. Chevy eliminated the PRND321 indicator form the console on both cars listed above. Both shift levers are surrounded by a solid black plastic trim panel. I for one wish they left the shift indicator down there. There is a digital PRND321 on the speedo cluster that illuminates when the car is started. Another thing I found ridicuous is on the Impala LS with leather bucket seats, only the passenger seat has a pocket on the back of the backrest ! C’mon now ! Why take the pocket off the back of the driver seat? Especially when your paying $625 extra for leather buckets and $1390 for the leather bench seat!!! Harryface ( getting madder from all these CHANGES ) Presently cruising in ~_~_~_>> 4. 1991 Pontiac Bonneville, 240,000 miles 1. 1973 Chevy Impala 4 door, 1980 – 83 2. 1968 Buick LeSabre Convertible, 1983-86 3. 1978 Olds Holiday 88, 1986 -91 5. 1989 Chevy Cavalier Z- 24 Convertible, 1996 to 2000
> I saw some 2003 Monte Carlo’s and Impala LS’s today. > Chevy eliminated the PRND321 indicator form the console on both cars > listed above. Both shift levers are surrounded by a solid black plastic > trim panel. I for one wish they left the shift indicator down there. > There is a digital PRND321 on the speedo cluster that illuminates when > the car is started.
mine has that, I dont really see how useful it is having the lettering down there, it doesnt exactly match up anyways. > Another thing I found ridicuous is on the Impala LS with leather bucket > seats, only the passenger seat has a pocket on the back of the backrest > ! > C’mon now ! Why take the pocket off the back of the driver seat?
yeah thats pretty lame… > Especially when your paying $625 extra for leather buckets and $1390 > for the leather bench seat!!!
*PUKE* that much for leather? damn… leather seats suck in AZ. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Harryface > ( getting madder from all these CHANGES ) > Presently cruising in ~_~_~_>> > 4. 1991 Pontiac Bonneville, 240,000 miles > 1. 1973 Chevy Impala 4 door, 1980 – 83 > 2. 1968 Buick LeSabre Convertible, 1983-86 > 3. 1978 Olds Holiday 88, 1986 -91 > 5. 1989 Chevy Cavalier Z- 24 Convertible, 1996 to 2000
This season, I removed my registration stickers to replace them with different ones ( weren’t aligned right on both sides…..really bugged me, everyone else thinks I’m nutz for doing it!, but hey it’s by baby!). When I did that, I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where it happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to prevent it from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy like what you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it. Mike
I don’t think you’ve hurt much… But, maybe some clear fingernail polish?
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This season, I removed my registration stickers to replace them with > different ones ( weren’t aligned right on both sides…..really bugged me, > everyone else thinks I’m nutz for doing it!, but hey it’s by baby!). When I > did that, I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where it > happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to prevent it > from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy like what > you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it. > Mike
Superglue it.
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This season, I removed my registration stickers to replace them with > different ones ( weren’t aligned right on both sides…..really bugged me, > everyone else thinks I’m nutz for doing it!, but hey it’s by baby!). When I > did that, I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where it > happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to prevent it > from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy like what > you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it. > Mike
lol, can someone send me a gallon of the stuff? Warren
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This season, I removed my registration stickers to replace them with > different ones ( weren’t aligned right on both sides…..really bugged me, > everyone else thinks I’m nutz for doing it!, but hey it’s by baby!). When I > did that, I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where it > happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to prevent it > from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy like what > you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it. > Mike
West Marine stocks a gelcoat repair kit with basic colors in it, which you can mix to match as closely as possible. Sorry, no metalflake. I was told metalflake is put into the clearcoat that goes over the gelcoat- and Westmarine didn’t stock a clearcoat for it- they suggested an automotive finish supplier for that. For my black metal flake repairs, I mixed black gelcoat with some cheap glitter from the 5 and dime, and put mylar or wax paper over the gelcoat after I applied it and squeegee’d the excess to thin the coat out – the mylar or wax paper makes a very smoothe finish and kinda shiny rather than rough and flat. I have numerous scratches and scrapes in my finish now, and plan to fix ‘em before I put the boat to bed for the winter. Too busy fishin’ now! B3 I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where it – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to prevent it > from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy like what > you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it.
Hey! Your first chip always hurts the worst!!! 
Mike
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> lol, can someone send me a gallon of the stuff? > Warren > This season, I removed my registration stickers to replace them with > different ones ( weren’t aligned right on both sides…..really bugged me, > everyone else thinks I’m nutz for doing it!, but hey it’s by baby!). When > I > did that, I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where it > happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to prevent > it > from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy like > what > you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it. > Mike
Thanks, I’ll look into finding a clearcoat at an auto finish supplier. Mike
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> West Marine stocks a gelcoat repair kit with basic colors in it, which > you can mix to match as closely as possible. Sorry, no metalflake. I was > told metalflake is put into the clearcoat that goes over the gelcoat- and > Westmarine didn’t stock a clearcoat for it- they suggested an automotive > finish supplier for that. For my black metal flake repairs, I mixed black > gelcoat with some cheap glitter from the 5 and dime, and put mylar or wax > paper over the gelcoat after I applied it and squeegee’d the excess to thin > the coat out – the mylar or wax paper makes a very smoothe finish and kinda > shiny rather than rough and flat. I have numerous scratches and scrapes in > my finish now, and plan to fix ‘em before I put the boat to bed for the > winter. Too busy fishin’ now! > B3 > I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where it > happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to prevent > it > from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy like > what > you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it.
How ’bout next years sticker? After that, just paste the new ones over the old until they start to fall off (really!).
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This season, I removed my registration stickers to replace them with > different ones ( weren’t aligned right on both sides…..really bugged me, > everyone else thinks I’m nutz for doing it!, but hey it’s by baby!). When I > did that, I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where it > happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to prevent it > from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy like what > you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it. > Mike
No doubt, but trust me. When you get to your 20th nick you don’t even feel it anymore. IMHO, a scratchless bassboat isn’t being used the way it’s supposed to be Warren — TriState Bassmasters Official Website: http://tri-statebassmasters.com/ Mesa Tackle Supply Pro Team Tournament Proven Pro Quality Hand Poured Soft Plastics! http://www.fishingworld.com/MesaTackleSupply/ My B.A.S.S. Tournament Patch Page: http://tri-statebassmasters.com/patches.htm
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hey! Your first chip always hurts the worst!!! > Mike > lol, can someone send me a gallon of the stuff? > Warren > > This season, I removed my registration stickers to replace them with > > different ones ( weren’t aligned right on both sides…..really bugged > me, > > everyone else thinks I’m nutz for doing it!, but hey it’s by baby!). > When > I > > did that, I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where it > > happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to > prevent > it > > from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy like > what > > you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it. > > Mike
Don’t get me wrong warren, I’ve got scratches up the wazzoo, but this is my first chip to the gelcoat……I’ve never been accused of not using my bassboat. I usually get the whole "You sure were not going to get stuck in Mike
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> No doubt, but trust me. When you get to your 20th nick you don’t even feel > it anymore. IMHO, a scratchless bassboat isn’t being used the way it’s > supposed to be > Warren > — > TriState Bassmasters Official Website: > http://tri-statebassmasters.com/ > Mesa Tackle Supply Pro Team > Tournament Proven Pro Quality Hand Poured Soft Plastics! > http://www.fishingworld.com/MesaTackleSupply/ > My B.A.S.S. Tournament Patch Page: > http://tri-statebassmasters.com/patches.htm > Hey! Your first chip always hurts the worst!!! > Mike > > lol, can someone send me a gallon of the stuff? > > Warren > > > This season, I removed my registration stickers to replace them with > > > different ones ( weren’t aligned right on both sides…..really bugged > me, > > > everyone else thinks I’m nutz for doing it!, but hey it’s by baby!). > When > > I > > > did that, I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where > it > > > happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to > prevent > > it > > > from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy like > > what > > > you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it. > > > Mike
An old trick is "if it’s stuck on with glue, it’ll come off very easily with a blow dryer, and then the glue residue left behind comes off with WD-40". — Jerry Barton www.jerrys-world.com
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> How ’bout next years sticker? > After that, just paste the new ones over the old until they start to fall > off (really!). > This season, I removed my registration stickers to replace them with > different ones ( weren’t aligned right on both sides…..really bugged me, > everyone else thinks I’m nutz for doing it!, but hey it’s by baby!). When > I > did that, I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where it > happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to prevent > it > from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy like > what > you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it. > Mike
Yeah, the blow dryer worked great, wish I knew about the wd40 though…. I just used my fingernails…..and man, that got to be a long time trying to get that stuff off….. Mike
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> An old trick is "if it’s stuck on with glue, it’ll come off very easily with > a blow dryer, and then the glue residue left behind comes off with WD-40". > — > Jerry Barton > www.jerrys-world.com > How ’bout next years sticker? > After that, just paste the new ones over the old until they start to fall > off (really!). > > This season, I removed my registration stickers to replace them with > > different ones ( weren’t aligned right on both sides…..really bugged > me, > > everyone else thinks I’m nutz for doing it!, but hey it’s by baby!). > When > I > > did that, I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where it > > happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to > prevent > it > > from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy like > what > > you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it. > > Mike
I hear ya Mike. Actually, I wasn’t differentiating between chip & scratch, and I no doubt should have been. My apologies. Chips hurt, I agree. Warren – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Don’t get me wrong warren, I’ve got scratches up the wazzoo, but this is my > first chip to the gelcoat……I’ve never been accused of not using my > bassboat. I usually get the whole "You sure were not going to get stuck in > Mike > No doubt, but trust me. When you get to your 20th nick you don’t even > feel > it anymore. IMHO, a scratchless bassboat isn’t being used the way it’s > supposed to be > Warren > — > TriState Bassmasters Official Website: > http://tri-statebassmasters.com/ > Mesa Tackle Supply Pro Team > Tournament Proven Pro Quality Hand Poured Soft Plastics! > http://www.fishingworld.com/MesaTackleSupply/ > My B.A.S.S. Tournament Patch Page: > http://tri-statebassmasters.com/patches.htm > > Hey! Your first chip always hurts the worst!!! > > Mike > > > lol, can someone send me a gallon of the stuff? > > > Warren > > > > This season, I removed my registration stickers to replace them with > > > > different ones ( weren’t aligned right on both sides…..really > bugged > me, > > > > everyone else thinks I’m nutz for doing it!, but hey it’s by baby!). > When > I > > > > did that, I chipped my gelcoat and it has a little white speck where > it > > > > happened. Is there some sort of clear coat I can put over that to > prevent > it > > > > from chipping further? Or is there a touch up gelcoat you can buy > like > what > > > > you buy for a car??? Thanks, I apprechiate it. > > > > Mike
I am thinking about trading for one but can’t try one out around here.
> I am thinking about trading for one but can’t try one out around here.
I’ve had one for 3 years and love it. I learned the 5-string on it and traded away my Music Man Sterling 4-string because I stopped playing it. The XB-925 has a very full bodied warmth to it plus it is pretty versatile with those 2 Bartolini pickups and active electronics. The workmanship is very good but there are a couple of cheap looking parts on it – the black metal plate where the neck bolts are and the black sticker on the headstock. The other negative is that when you mention to other guitarists and bassists that you have a Washburn they automatically assume it’s a cheap bass. I paid $635 for mine. Guitar Center was closing out all their Washburn inventory for rock bottom prices because they were angry that Washburn also gave the line to Mars Music. I had tested the XB-924 and XB-925 when I bought my Music Man but I didn’t want to pay the price when it was the same as the Music Man. It was a steal at $635 and I couldn’t resist it. I have to admit that it is the best sounding bass I’ve ever owned and I’ve owned a lot (Fender Jazz & Precision, Rickenbacker 4001, Gibson EBO & Triumph, Ernie Ball Music Man Sterling). By the way, most stores that carry Washburn probably won’t have a XB-925 in stock but they can have one shipped in for you to test (I did that myself). Dave
>I am looking to put in a new entry door for our office. >I am partial towards a black metal finish with a full length glass >window. >I went to the Home Depot and saw some Anderson glass storm doors, but >there must be a more robust alternative. >Anyone has ideas ?
Is it going into a steel or aluminum frame? Does it require a crash bar? Locks at top, bottom or center with mortise locks? Does it swing both ways? If any of the above, contact a glass shop. If none of the above, you might get by with any residential door.
I am looking to put in a new entry door for our office. I am partial towards a black metal finish with a full length glass window. I went to the Home Depot and saw some Anderson glass storm doors, but there must be a more robust alternative. Anyone has ideas ? Please copy my email address. Thanks. Bob
They need to go to Finland and Sweden also. Those are hotspots for metal in Europe. Greece and Italy also is and of course Norway is the black metal capital of the world.
But dont have the Nu Metal bands playing in Europe.
Because from what I read they are more into Iced Earth and Dimmu Borgir style metal.
I don’t think Ozzy is coming to Scandinavia this year. If he would, we should already heard about it. And what I heard about Hultsfred, he didn’t enjoy the place when Black Sabbath played there a couple of years ago, to cold he said. Jan Henell Sweden
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hopefully he comes to Swden too!!! > Maybe Hultsfred… > — > 05/20/02 Braunschweig, GER Volkswagen Halle > 05/23/02 Antwerp, BEL Sportpaleis Antwerpen > 05/25/02 Castle Donington, UK Donington Park Racetrack > 05/26/02 Dublin, IRE Punchestown Race Course > 05/29/02 Katowice, POL Spodek Sporthall > 05/30/02 Prague, CZE Strahov Stadium > 06/01/02 Nijmegen, NET Goffert Park > 06/08/02 Zurich, SWI Hallenstadion Zurich
Hopefully he comes to Swden too!!! Maybe Hultsfred… — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> 05/20/02 Braunschweig, GER Volkswagen Halle > 05/23/02 Antwerp, BEL Sportpaleis Antwerpen > 05/25/02 Castle Donington, UK Donington Park Racetrack > 05/26/02 Dublin, IRE Punchestown Race Course > 05/29/02 Katowice, POL Spodek Sporthall > 05/30/02 Prague, CZE Strahov Stadium > 06/01/02 Nijmegen, NET Goffert Park > 06/08/02 Zurich, SWI Hallenstadion Zurich
05/20/02 Braunschweig, GER Volkswagen Halle 05/23/02 Antwerp, BEL Sportpaleis Antwerpen 05/25/02 Castle Donington, UK Donington Park Racetrack 05/26/02 Dublin, IRE Punchestown Race Course 05/29/02 Katowice, POL Spodek Sporthall 05/30/02 Prague, CZE Strahov Stadium 06/01/02 Nijmegen, NET Goffert Park 06/08/02 Zurich, SWI Hallenstadion Zurich